Fashion journalist Lauren Sherman reported that Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran plan to leave Uniqlo's U series, with the 2026 fall/winter collection likely being their final collaboration after a decade. Fast Retailing has reduced its stake in the Lemaire brand, and internal discussions about continuing the U series without the designers were vetoed by founder Tadashi Yanai. Neither Lemaire nor Fast Retailing commented, but Sherman noted that the situation could change in the coming months.
A Decade of Mutual Benefit
The Uniqlo U series began as a 2015 collaboration called "Uniqlo and Lemaire," which was so successful that Lemaire was appointed artistic director of Uniqlo's Paris R&D center in 2016. Lemaire insisted on not putting his name on the label, saying the goal was to create a permanent product layer that complemented the main line. Over ten years, the partnership achieved its original aims: Uniqlo gained a modern, restrained European aesthetic, while Lemaire's brand grew tenfold in sales between 2019 and 2024, surpassing €100 million. The brand opened flagship stores in China, Japan, and South Korea, with its Chengdu store averaging monthly sales of ¥7 million. Sherman cited a source predicting Lemaire's 2026 sales would reach €160 million, making it a target for private equity.
The Impact on Uniqlo
The U series has been a critical part of Uniqlo's product ecosystem, with annual retail sales estimated at $9-10 billion, about 5% of the brand's 2025 fiscal year revenue. Its round-neck T-shirt was the top-selling T-shirt globally for 17 consecutive months from May 2024 to September 2025. More importantly, the U series served as a "design lab" for Uniqlo, with successful elements like oversized tops and 3D knitwear migrating to the main line. Losing this innovation engine would be a blow, especially as Uniqlo shifts its growth focus from China to Europe and North America, where a modern aesthetic is crucial. The company has already groomed a successor: Clare Waight Keller, who launched the similar Uniqlo:C series in 2023 and was promoted to creative director of all Uniqlo lines in 2024. Lemaire's departure would test whether Uniqlo's innovation system can survive without its original architects.